House of MEA celebrates diversity. Founded upon a desire to promote regional talent from the Middle East & Asia, this seasons’ collections truly shone with difference and talent. Showcasing three designers, the AW17 show glistened from the first walk. The House of Middle East and Asia show hosted designs by Felix Bendish, Kajal Patel and Nivedita Saboo.
Kajal Patel’s ‘Gold Collection’ brought a variety of single and two piece fashion items to LFW: all, in gold. When the looks flowed down the catwalk together, set against the stunning interior of Freemasons’ Hall, we were left breathless. There was a clear influence of the designer’s Indian heritage across the pieces, including intricately beaded dresses and clean swooping cuts.
Patel’s designs ranged from flattering and feminine flowing skirts and light long dresses, to fierce, long armed gowns with deep décolletages and intricate gold patterning. Patel’s designs aim to combine the celebration of classic Indian designs and skills, with a touch of today’s women. Her designs were accessible and lovable; a true match between cultural craftsmanship and the contemporary.
Next came Felix Bendish. By pulling inspiration from the natural world’s dwindling resources and then using a vast range of textures, including luxurious man-made pieces, a strong, quite frankly, fabulous collection was created. There was a vast mix of fabrics across the collection including velvet, leather and bejeweled wool gloves, which truly highlighted the diversity and fusion of styles across House of MEA’s show.
Bendish’s collection was created in the name of organic luxury, and keeps in the mind the limits of our natural resources. The colour scheme ranged from clinical white, earthy black and intense red and green to tell the story of nature. Meanwhile, there were accents of an urbanized future which came in metallics and stitching details. Futuristic elements were also seen in the accessories and jewelry, such as detailed plastic neck pieces which raised to cover parts of the face.
Closing the show was Nivedita Saboo. This years collection took tailored luxury to a whole new level. Creating pieces for both men and women, the AW17 clothes were a mix of greys and dark greens, with a splash of orange. Overall, a military feel reinvented in opulence was created.
The women’s dresses experimented with length and form, mixing fitted bodies with looser ruffles. The men’s suits sported drastic, swooping cuts, showcasing Saboo’s ability to make high quality tailoring still exciting high fashion. A motif of glass shards could be seen across the collection, adding dimension to the pieces and cleverly playing not only with shape and style, but also with light and visual illusion too.
Saboo works with indigenous Indian heritage techniques, and supports Indian arts and crafts. Well known classics are transformed in innovative ways and as a result, her collection of both male and female garments is in line with the future; the cuts are clean, structured and sophisticated; yet there are eye catching details and fabrics. The wing-like décolletage alludes both to nature, and to the straight forward statements of the future. Nivedita Saboo has strongly revamped and redefined the definitions of the power suit for this season.
Written by Saga Radh and Bryony Jewell. Images © Pop PR.