Moorish culture provides the conceptual backdrop to Hussein Chalayan’s SS15 collection, entitled Moore’s Gaze. The pieces feature tangerine tree and courgette flower motifs on a backdrop of tiled floor patterns in nude and grey. A recurring figure is that of a covered women, peering furtively from beneath her veil.

Boxy black blazers are paired with oversized white shirts in an androgynous style that is further magnified by dark goggles. Flowing long-line silhouettes provide movement in the delicate fabrics, whilst asymmetry, slits and bias cuts create slightly harsher lines.

The general feel of the collection varies; changing from dark, heavy and quite oppressive to fresh, soft and feminine. Although there are stunning garments at both ends of this unusual spectrum, there does seem to be a disconnect in this collection. On the whole, I’m not entirely convinced but I would still happily add that pastel blue tile print to my wardrobe any day.

Written by Francesca Bassenger. Images © Hussein Chalayan.