Oooooo. There’s something about the J.W Anderson collection that’s a little bit awkward… like seeing a stranger walk down the street with their skirt tucked into their knickers (do you tell them?). Androgyny is taken right up to the line and then shoved across it into a sort of hazy ‘drag’ area. Is it the rounded lapels or the fine off-the-shoulder knits, the frilly detailing or the bows on the shoes? I can’t be sure, maybe all of it. I’m no traditionalist by any means, particularly when it comes to menswear, but there’s something about the collection on the whole that is too feminine to look comfortable on male models. Having said that, gender boundaries are there to be pushed and, in previous J.W Anderson collections, have been. Very successfully. Unfortunately, this time, the delicate roll necks with printed sleeves and adorable bucket-shaped bags have tipped the concept over the edge.
That green shirt and cropped trouser combo is striking and those asymmetrical tunics are the embodiment of Japanese-subculture inspired style, there’s no denying that there are some great elements here. Taken out of the context of the runway styling there are pieces here that could be stunning but, for now, I’m struggling to make my peace with it.
Written by Francesca Bassenger. Images courtesy of J.W. Anderson.