JAMIE WEI HUANG. AW14.

Buckled up in androgynous, strongly cut shapes, the Jamie Wei Huang collection veered on the conceptual side this season. Restrictive references were apparent through strait-jacket reminiscent structures, featuring black buckles and head pieces that covered the mouth. The simplicity of the pieces was defined in the uniform colour palette of navy, white, black and grey, although the few hints of soft pink and bright red were combined with the minimalism well: a stellar example being the clean white leather jacket with crimson red detailing – a fresh and striking piece from the collection. Another highlight was the oversized pockets sewn onto garments for covetable practicality.

Delicate fine fabrics contrasted with the toughness of leather and heavy wool, indicating the fine line between femininity and masculinity which Huang also challenged through contrasting cuts. There were sexual tones worked into the collection which appeared both restrictive and prominent: while there was plenty of flesh with the deeply cut jackets, thigh high splits and cut out backs, the oversized, loosely flowing shapes quickly discarded any conventional idea of femininity. A striking juxtaposition.

Having cut her teeth at Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane, it’s not hard to see where Huang garners her adventurous, conceptually driven initiative from. This season being inspired by images of refugees, which shaped the simple yet full-impact pieces.

Written by Daniella Golden. Images © POP PR.