For his 3rd presentation at LC:M, Austrian born and London based designer Raimund Berthold took inspiration from the utilitarian silhouettes of WW2 soldiers and minimalist sculptor, Franz Erhard Walther. The combination of the two seemingly opposed concepts together created a collection focused on volume with a simplistic, yet bold, colour scheme that proved that black is indeed the new black.
Designed to ‘cover and protect’, the range features big and baggy shapes that wrap the body but allow it to move freely; such as the rubber coated black blanket jacket with attached backpack. Mixing textures and proportions with macs, longline jackets, oversized outerwear and culottes in leather, rubber and knit, Berthold creates workwear that is both wearable and innovative. With bursts of citrus yellow (rumoured to be inspired by WW2 lifejackets) making an appearance in the form of a parka and tunic with matching calf-length jacket, the collection gave a fresh feel to AW16.
Key pieces were a black long knitted scarf, reverse cable black cardigan and sheepskin jacket, establishing Berthold as a strong contender in the competitive industry of menswear.
Written by and images © Chelsea Davis. Video source British Fashion Council YouTube.