LC:M AW16. MATTHEW MILLER.

Hard, confident and somewhat political. Miller’s collection at LC:M for AW16 was strong both in the visual and ideological sense. Using block colours and strong details, Miller created a show that had religious and political elements.

The colour black dominated the catwalk, this collection is texture crazy. Boxy blazers on both men and women are layered with scarves that synch in the waists and unify each look. Using strong shapes and soft textures Miller creates a gothic winter.

Heaven meets Hell as hues of whites and creams grace the catwalk. Similar to the looks in black, Miller layers knee-length coats with chunky white leather bombers. The contrast in colour gives way to the idea of difference; models set apart by the colour of their garments. This sparks ideas of good and bad, dark and light.

The collection as a whole is edgy and strong. Biker jackets, structured overcoats and oversized zips create a militaristic look.  Wartime leather arm bands feature heavily in black, browns and whites.  An androgynous female model in a boxy cream suit, clutching brown leather gloves makes her way confidently down the catwalk. The models are unified, combative and intimidating.

The oil on canvas pieces cannot be missed, depicting Caravaggio’s David and Goliath. Miller’s inclusion of these pieces  is ambiguous. Is he poking at a changing social order that is in the midst? Perhaps he is delving deep into the ideological structures of humanity.

The collection plays with colour and texture. Sturdy winter materials, married with strong detailing, make this collection timeless and ready to wear throughout a chilly British winter. Sociological and ideological links create something modern and powerful.  Miller makes it seem as if a social awakening is on the horizon, both in fashion and day to day life. Perhaps he is right.

Written by Bridget Sissons. Video source British Fashion Council YouTube.

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