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Rip-effect unfinished edges are the first thing to be noted at Marques Almeida, but not particularly for the right reasons. It may be the designers’ signature, but instead of edgy and ragamuffin the impression this season is more lazy and homeless, especially on the denim items. And yet in past seasons they’ve done it so well… *sigh*

In stark contrast the collection features some show-stopping pony hair biker jackets in a variation of designs and colours. The jewel blue silk parka and fur items are also a redeeming highlight.

The show notes reference 90s rock as the main influence and, true enough, there is plenty of the hung-over Nirvana fan about some of the looks. Tank tops, billowingly wide-legged trousers, and oversized cartoon camo print all ring a bell, I’m just not entirely convinced that that’s a positive thing.

Written by Francesca Bassenger.
Photographs © Rory Van Millingen.