For Matthew Miller this is the first standalone show away from NewGen sponsorship; for this AW collection the focus is on what could have been and the realisation of conformity. Looking at utility, romance and decay to create “a beautiful chaos” of deconstructed long line t-shirts and oversized tailoring.
A muted palette of creams, greys, indigo and burgundy throw focus on the clash of textures. Using upholstering fabrics to adorn the body it comments on the materialism we use to define our lives and continuing the collaboration with Danish Kvadrat to create fabrics with meaning and emotion.
Shredded fringing, appliqué pockets and bomber jacket-style zips show the re-appropriating of utility symbols. A range of jackets, fitted trousers and clean lines shows a formal display with undertones of anarchy.
The collection is wearable and youthful which is also reflected in the footwear. The Slovakian brand Novesta, which has been producing shoes since before WW2 adds another level of rebellious unity. Using upholstery fabrics, relaxed trainers are then coordinated with the outfits.
This collection modifies the idea of uniform into a nomadic resistant by questioning the outcome of a generation. Relaxed yet political, Matthew Miller has created a thought provoking show.
Written by Gabrielle Kynoch. Images © Christopher Dadey.