With a collection entitled Reject Everything, it’s clear that Meadham Kirchhoff is preparing its audience to expect the unexpected this season. And unexpected indeed it is; with revealing sheer layers, shredded coats and lots of latex. Although controversial, the collection is a breath of fresh air in an industry which is so commonly confined to a set of unwritten rules.
Describing their ideal customer as uncompromising, aware and individual, the designers have rejected all ideas of modesty and privacy in these clothes. Latex tops and skirts cling to all areas of the body while transparent shorts reveal the genitalia of one male model. Cut-outs and slashes reveal further sections of skin. Silhouettes are kept relaxed and oversized, challenging traditions of cut and fit. A garish colour palette is decorated with cord-like embellishment. Ruffled skirts and gathered shirts offer a hint of femininity in this otherwise gender-neutral collection.
There are clear and evident parallels with Vivienne Westwood’s clothing which shaped popular culture in the 1970s – above all a refusal to conform. Ultimately, this collection is defined by a single mindset: the Meadham Kirchhoff designer duo don’t care if you buy their clothes. The epitome of anti-corporate fashion, this collection exhibits a raw passion for an industry which is now almost entirely driven by sales.
Written by Catherine Loader. Images © Meadham Kirchhoff. Video source: British Fashion Council.