“Without thought nothing could exist”, this is a saying from the Kogi tribe from South America. The tribe was the inspiration for Tourne de Transmission’s first London Collections: Men presentation. Having watched ‘Aluna’, a powerful documentary from 1990, Graeme Gaughan of Tourne de Transmission was drawn to the tribe’s silhouettes and use of layering.
Since records began the way that the tribe live their lives has changed very little. Frightened by their observations of what the so called civilised world has done to the environment, the Kogi tribe have despatched envoys from their community and are warning us of our nescience, this fact inspired the collections name ‘WE THE IGNORANT YOUTH’.
The presentation took place within the walls of St George’s Church in Bloomsbury. The air was filled with the smell of incense and the mood was sombre. The setting was made of all white fabric draped over seats and along the floor, with a huge hand painted canvas by art director Johnny Button hung in the background.
The collection featured relaxed silhouettes, with the models dressed in either board shorts or loose fitting pants. Wrapping and layering created long lines while raw edges, patchwork, soft suedes, denim with custom weave made up the fabrics. The split-box graphic detail, in patchwork and print, played a subtle reference to Tourne de Transmissions first ever collection, while the straps across the torso referenced the traditional woven bags that the Kogi tribe carry.
The colour palette was muted in shades of black, khaki and white. Each look was finished off with ‘Dinku’ footwear from Kickers, a retro style that from their achieves that hails an authentic Inuit shoe the moccasin.
Written by Michaela Hoyte. Images © Tourne de Transmission.